Answering Your Questions:

There have been a ton of comments and questions on this site, and on various online forums. I have tried to avoid reading the very negative ones, but will try to address some concerns some of you have had:

Via RockClimbing.com: hippiegrrrl has said, “Cams can clink and rattle on your harness, but they ought to be shipped with safety foam”

My Response: Yes. Cams can clink on a harness, but surely being packed in a box, and thrown around a shipping facility/truck is different than that. The postal worker could literally drop your box of cams from the 4th storey window of the post office down to his truck, and you would never know how good his aim is.

Via MountainProject.com: Jeff J said, “If that is his TR anchor, I never climbing a big wall with this guy. I can not imagine the cluster F*%& that would ensue. ”

My Response: Jeff, I am sad you wouldn’t want to climb a big wall with me. I hope to one day soon go big wall climbing, but feel I need a lot more practice Aid Climbing. Aid seems to be the one area of my climbing skills which is lacking. I know that it is the most technically and mentally challenging part of “climbing”. Maybe after a few years of Big Walling, you feel that you can make less bomber anchors. I, on the other hand, believe an anchor should hold at least 3-4x the maximum load conceivable.

Via SuperTopo.com: budmiller wrote, “certainly a fake but a very good one. The devils in the details, like how he set his own 5.12!”

My Response: Budmiller, just because I set my own routes, does not mean I am fake. I try to be as real as possible. If somebody does’t agree with my grading of a route, they can certainly voice their opinion. Rock climbing grades are all subjective. There are some 5.13’s out there that some people like Chris Sharma would grade as a 5.9, because to him it is easy. I feel like the route to me, is 5.12.

Via ThisWebsite: Anonymous wrote, “Hey Wes, great blog. Helped me get the right stuff to go do some top roping out at the crag out in Sydney. Totally stoked to read your blog. Hey man was wondering if you could like teach me how to like place those anchor things in the rock….but like over the internet man. Raaaad!!”

My Response: Thanks so much! I am very happy to have helped you! It’s nice to know I have fans out in Sydney! I love Kiwis, and hope to visit some day! Those anchor things in the rock are called bolts! It is very important you learn how to place these from a certified mountain guide/route developer and check with your local climbing area’s access fund before ever attempting to do so. I am a self-taught route developer.

If you have any other questions or anything, make sure you drop me a comment or question on here or on my Facebook Page!

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7 thoughts on “Answering Your Questions:

  1. Why should you care about how cams are shipped when you believe that every route (including existing ones) should be bolted?

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  2. Just 3-4x? What if a couple fat dudes blow all of their bolts and fall so their rope pulls you off the rock and your anchor has to hold the shock load of all three of you?

    You should take some time to watch this instructional video to learn even more about climbing. I’d appreciate your insight since there are a couple things that are hard for me to understand. Maybe after you watch the video, you can explain them to me.

    Rule #1: Always be the one with the knife.

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  3. Hi Wes,

    your blog has totally re-energised my climbing life. I have made a commitment to get STRONGER today! I am going down to my home wall and I am actually going to climb on it. But there is one area of my climbing that I am needing help in. It’s belaying. Do you have any tips for training to be a better belayer?

    Keep gripping,

    Patrick
    (Melbourne, Australia)

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    • Awesome! I am super stoked for you to rediscover climbing! As far as belaying, I like to set up an anchor station in my garage, and feed the rope through a top anchor, just to practise feeding out slack, taking it in. I sometimes attach weight to the other end to simulate holding a climber.

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      • That’s awesome Wes, I am sure this will take my belaying to a whole new level. Another question if I may – for your garage anchor do you use a three way set up – I’m just not sure how safe to be?

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