Who is Sean McColl anyway?

Someone posted this video of a climber, Sean McColl, on twitter recently:

I did some research, and apparently this is part of a bouldering competition called the “Hueco Rock Rodeo“. Did I read this right? an OUTDOOR bouldering competition? This doesn’t seem fair to me!

At a “real” bouldering competition, you have professional route setters making sure they set world class boulder problems that none of the competitors have climbed before. They are able to create beautiful movement, and problems that are harder than anything found in nature. This is the allure of indoor bouldering. You are not limited but the finite amount of holds and moves that real rock produces.

Also, who’s to say Mr. McColl hasn’t been to Hueco before and tried these problems over and over until they are all but memorized? Wouldn’t this give him an unfair advantage? From now on, lets keep it fair, and have rock climbing competitions where they belong: gyms.

Keepin’ it real.

Wes

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15 thoughts on “Who is Sean McColl anyway?

  1. Maybe one day they will do the same with indoor competitions where they let everyone try the as many times as they want before hand then have them all come back a few months later and have the competition. Brings the outdoor experience such as this one you are ranting about indoors just to piss you off… 😀

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      • that’s fine, I’m sure the gym organizing the comp can send some holds to other gyms where the competitors are who can’t travel and have that gym recreate the problems so they can not only practice but compete remotely. Once the comp is over the gym just simply sends the holds back to the organizing gym. Problem solve for travel!

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      • this could work in theory, however most climbing walls are designed differently. Different angles, heights, textures… maybe if gyms would all have a consistent “comp wall” standard that every gym would build to exact competition specs?

        Liked by 1 person

  2. yeah comp’s should never be held outside, it is so restrictive and the setters just don’t understand movement like setters in the gym… Save rockclimbing outdoors for lowball gems and heart pumping free bouldering and keep the comps inside. Sean is strong, but I could totally do what he does outside, because it is after all way easier. Peace!

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  3. Yeah, I mean the routes at comps are definitely “harder than anything found in nature.” I mean, cuz, nature is so damn easy, and it’s all the same out there.

    Good lord is that a ridiculously dumb statement, that stands out for its idiocy even on a blog full of misinformed statements.

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  4. You absolutely right….outdoor comps are a VERY serious undertaking and are in no way whatsoever meant to be a fun gathering of climbers enjoying a good day outside. These outdoor comps are meant to be a real test of who is the best climber in the world. I think the only solution is to start chipping and gluing holds onto existing problems to change them up between outdoor comps (that way they would be “fair”) to all competitors. All it would take is to chip off that cruz crimp and replace it with a little drilled mono pocket to completely change any given problem.

    It only makes sense since outdoor climbing is so limited in the holds and movement anyways….why not change it up every now and again right.

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