Inspired!

As some of you may know, recently, Alex Honnold completed an incredible free solo in Mexico, on a route called “El Sendero Luminoso“. This was very inspiring to me. Sometimes, (more often than not), I cannot find anybody that will climb with me. It sucks because not having a belayer really prevents me from progressing as fast as I know I could. At the gym, this isn’t a problem because of Auto-Belays. I love them. I only wish there was a portable Auto-Belay that I could take outdoors (I’m looking at you, Petzl!).

Anyway, a few days ago, pumped with adrenaline from the Honnold video, I decided to attempt my first outdoor boulder problem- with NO crash pad, and NO spotter.

What a thrill! I attempted a local problem with a grade of V1, however, I added a sit-start variation which I believe may bring it up to V3. Not sure who I talk to about adding my variation to the guide book, but either way, it was incredible.

The boulder is almost 10 feet high. I started slow.. controlled my breathing… half way I took a rest on a jug, and I controlled my anxiety. I made one final crux move…. And I was on top.

I know this doesn’t compare to what Alex Honnold does, but to me, it was my first free solo.

boulder

On a side note… I recently have been getting some negative comments on here and on various forum sites. I am sorry if I have offended anybody in any way. I will review all of your constructive criticism, and try to help the community better with my, and your expertise.

Peace, Wes.

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13 thoughts on “Inspired!

  1. Wow! No crash pad or spotter! You sir, are a registered badass!
    *Sarcasm off*

    And besides… if you want to lead climb alone, there’s something called SELF BELAY! So you won’t have to endure the life threatening risks of “free soloing” *Sarcasm on* a 10 foot V1.

    Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhAww0CI-Gw
    Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SyAMQuqhj6I
    Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYuksC6RK2Y
    Part 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjZYe3O2QQ
    Part 5: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGjZYe3O2QQ

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      • So you want to free solo? You want to risk your life trying to impress people or to look cool? Half of the most well known free soloers are now dead… From free soloing.
        You stated how you didn’t have a partner to belay you. That’s what the self belay system is for.
        And from 10 feet on a V1, odds are that you aren’t going to fall and if you do, it’s only 10 freaking feet. If you’re a 6 foot male, at most, there’s going to be a fall factor of 4 feet.
        Why would you need a helmet for bouldering? You’re probably thinking that a helmet is used to protect your head from hitting the rock if you fall. Although that may be true for those rare occasions, the main reason for wearing a helmet is to protect your head from falling rock or other objects, something much more common.

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      • “Why would you need a helmet for bouldering? You’re probably thinking that a helmet is used to protect your head from hitting the rock if you fall. Although that may be true for those rare occasions, the main reason for wearing a helmet is to protect your head from falling rock or other objects, something much more common.”

        Actually I think falling is much more common than rockfall. Plus, you wear a helmet on a bike and that’s only like 2 feet off the ground. Or skis or a motorcycle. And you fall WAY more in climbing than in that stuff if you are really pushing yourself. It really is way safer to boulder with a helmet and makes total sense. Yeah you don’t really need that extra padding on top for rockfall, so if you’re concerned it will get in your way of a move maybe use a slimmer biking style helmet if you wanna be more safe. They are super light too. I think all he’s saying is that there IS more risk involved- and that can all add up to more of a mental pump.

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      • I do know at least one climber who has broken a helmet decking off a climb. That said, when I put mine on it’s usually because I’m concerned someone like Wesley will lose track of one of the 5 biners on his anchor and drop it on me. Falling rocks are a problem, but in popular climbing spots falling gear is actually the most common.

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  2. That’s awesome man. Climbing is such an individual sport and it’s that experience that matters. I know I’ve added lots of sit start variations that were SO LOW I had to move the crash pad out of the way. But once I hit that first jug I’d usually drag it back under me with a foot.
    Oh- for variations I think you just go to mountainproject.com or super topo and post them there. That’s kinda what they are for. The guide books are the official resource and you find the cool variations on the websites. Hope that helps!

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  3. yeah free bouldering is all the rave man, it’s so freeing, like, it makes me like, so free to move without protection and it’s almost as rad as what Alex does everyday. I recently put up this rad line with a lie down sit start into a sitstart finishing on a jug. It was only three feet off the deck, but man was it intense….so Props to you good sir!

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  4. What are the odds that this idiot gets himself killed before he gets someone else killed? 50/50? My guess is that he fails free soloing his sit start, lands on his top-rope anchor with his hundreds of knots and gets strangled.

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  5. Dear Wes,

    Thanks so much for your educational, easy to understand and most of all inspiring blog. If there were more climbers out there like you then I’m sure climbing would be a whole lot safer, accessible for the uneducated and most importantly fun. Keep up the good work!

    Cheers,

    TD from Australia 🙂

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